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Mount Timpanogos, Utah
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Devil's Castle is a small, but rugged mountain in the Central Wasatch Range. The mountain's image is well known in skiing circles as it dominates the skyline of the Alta Ski Area, regularly voted as one of the top ski areas in North America. Devil's Castle is a perfect destination for short climbs when time is limited. There are three main routes on the mountain, none of which take more than four hours for a round trip. The easiest route is a low 5th Class climb along the summit ridge. The ridge is typically climbed by starting on the east side and ending on the west. The second route is a spring, snow climb up the Devil's Castle Couloir, and the third route is a 5.10b climb up the north face, named the Black Streak. It's important to note that Devil's Castle is not a mountain for hikers or beginning climbers. Experienced route finding is necessary, as well as a comfort with exposure.

The Albion Basin, below Devil's Castle, is one of the busiest areas in the Wasatch. Dayhikers and families frequent the area all throughout the summer. By late morning, it is not rare to see full parking lots and a shuttle bringing people up to the Basin from the lower parking areas in Alta. The moral of the story is to start out early, as early as possible. Early mornings, or early evenings, are typically quiet and enjoyable.

Devil's Castle, Utah

Trip Reports:

Summit - via Full Ridge Traverse - 8/19/06

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